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Ross Castle
~ Caisleán Ross ~
Ross Castle
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Ross Castle
The entrance to Ross Castle. In the near corner of the castle keep is the stairwell. One of the two remaining circular flanking towers and part of the curtain wall is at the right of the photo. The remains of the 18th century barracks extend to the left behind a part of the outer wall. 5 October 2005
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Ross Castle, the ancestral home of the O'Donoghue clan, is located on the edge of Lough Leane, in Killarney National Park. The Castle and outer defences were built by the O'Donoghue Ross Chieftains during the 15th century. The barracks alongside dates from the mid 18th century. Now restored, the castle houses a fine collection of 16th and 17th century oak furniture.

History
The century prior to the building of Ross Castle saw a revival in Ireland of the old feudal ways and of Gaelic literature and learning. During this period the local clans consolidated their power in Kerry. It was however a period of economic depression with several outbreaks of famine and the Black Death, consequently it was not a great period of building. However, renewed prosperity in the 15th century saw the construction of both Muckross Abbey and Ross Castle in the Killarney area.

At this time the O'Donoghue clan had undisputed hold over the Killarney area and set about constructing Ross Castle on the shore of Lough Leane. This substantial castle was their defensive stronghold for just over 100 years. It is austere in design with few decorative features. This castle would not have stood in isolation; associated with it would have been many timber structures where the chieftain's retinue lived.

With the passage of time the leading Anglo-Normans of south Munster, the Earls of Desmond, had adopted the Irish ways of life and intermarried with local families. However with the establishment of direct English rule in the 16th century the pendulum began to swing back. In 1536 the Dublin Parliament legally dissolved the monasteries and six years later the Earl of Desmond
Ross Castle around 1500Ross Castle around 1500
was commissioned to dissolve the religious houses in Kerry, although there seems to have been no real interference with the monasteries here at that time.

Then followed the Desmond rebellion, which began in 1569 and continued until 1583 when the Earl of Desmond was finally killed. During these wars, Dunloe Castle was assaulted and suffered considerable damage. The O'Donoghue Ross had taken the losing side, which cost him his life and the subsequent forfeiture of his lands. A survey was commissioned by the Crown of the fallen rebels' lands and one of the surveyors, Sir Valentine Browne, benefited greatly from the subsequent land confiscation. O'Donoghue's lands and castle passed briefly into the hands of Donal MacCarthy Mor, but being chronically short of money he mortgaged them in turn to Sir Valentine Browne. In the collapse of the MacCarthy fortunes soon afterwards the castle came into Browne's hands, although it was the subject of litigation for some time thereafter.

By 1641 revolt had broken out all over Ireland and eventually Cromwell's forces arrived to quell the rebellion. When the Parliamentary Army finally arrived in Kerry in 1652, under the command of General Ludlow, they attacked Dunloe Castle and a great portion of it was demolished during the bombardment. Castle Lough, the fortress of the MacCarthy Mor on Lough Leane, was also besieged and when it was taken, the structure was subsequently demolished. Ross Castle was held by Lord Muskerry when General Ludlow laid siege to it with infantry and horsemen. The castle surrendered when Ludlow brought artillery by boat up the river Laune across Lough Leane; it was one of the last major strongholds to yield during the Cromwellian wars.

Ross Castle around 1700Ross Castle around 1700

 

Both the Browne and Herbert families, the owners of the two great estates of Killarney up to recent times, had moved to Kerry to take up confiscated land. They were termed "undertakers" because they undertook to settle the land with English Protestant farmers. The Brownes received extensive confiscated lands in the area after the Desmond Rebellion and they established themselves at Ross Castle, building a fortified house alongside the castle in 1688. Not long after, at the time of the Williamite Wars, Ross Castle became a permanent military post and was converted to a barrack. The garrison at Ross also made use of Browne's quarters for which he was eventually compensated. A more permanent barrack was built adjoining the castle in the mid 18th century and this accommodated two companies of infantry and a governor. When the garrison was finally removed around 1825, Lord Kenmare had the roof of the barrack removed and the large windows altered to loops to reflect the style of the castle.

Description
This castle may be considered a typical example of the stronghold of an Irish Chieftain during the Middle Ages. The date of its foundation is unsure but it was probably built in the late 15th century by one of the O'Donoghue Ross Chieftains. The keep proper is a commanding rectangular structure built on a limestone outcrop. It is surrounded by a fortified bawn, its curtain wall defended by circular flanking towers, two of which remain. (Bawn is the anglicized version of the Gaelic word badhun meaning cattle-fort. It is a defensive wall built around a tower house. It gets its name because it was used to protect livestock during an attack. It is the origin of the word "barn.") The high level bawn wallwalk was no doubt battlemented. At the close of the 17th century the castle itself was converted into a barrack; by the time the present barrack building was constructed in the mid-18th century much of the enclosing bawn had been removed.

The castle is of typical style for the period although the larger windows were added at a later stage. The main oak door was protected by an outer metal 'drawbridge style' door which was pivoted at the base. Inside, the hall is small and was easily defended; above is a rectangular opening called a murder hole, which certainly gave advantage to the defenders. There is a circular stone staircase in the north east corner, which leads directly to all the chambers and eventually to the parapets. To the right of the entrance hall is the Guardroom. The small chambers in the castle are all located at the north end. Halfway up the staircase a narrow passage leads to the Garderobe and this provided the only toilet facilities within the castle.

The Bed Chamber has a fine vaulted ceiling. Unfortunately the original collapsed but the replacement has been reconstructed using medieval building techniques. To construct the vault two enormous wickerwork mats were woven in situ and placed on temporary timber formwork. The stone vault was constructed directly on top of this and when the formwork was eventually removed the wickerwork remained leaving an interesting woven pattern. To make the plaster, the lime and sand was mixed with coarse animal hair, which helped stop it from cracking as it dried out. No animal hair was used in the final layer. Most of the windows had pivoted timber shutters.

The most important chamber is the Great Hall and this is situated at the uppermost level. It has two large six-light windows and only at this position would it have been safe enough to have such large openings. The finest fireplace is located here and this room would have been the centre of activity in the castle. At one end separated by an oak partition is a kitchen and above this, a minstrels' gallery. The whole space is covered by a reconstructed oak roof using adzed timber which are pegged together with oak dowels - no nails have been used.

The parapets on the castle are conjectural and are based on those remaining on the McCarthy castle at Ballycarbery near Cahirciveen. The chimney is based entirely on the original, which had to be taken down for structural reasons.

Ross Castle around 1500Ross Castle around 1800

Bartizans are situated at the north west and south east corners of the castle - these are overhanging turrets from which missiles, etc. could be dropped with ease on the attacking enemy below. They have a range of musket loops, as this was the ideal place to locate musketeers. Over the entrance door is a very unusual feature for an Irish castle - an oak door hinged from projected stone brackets, which allowed soldiers to defend the entrance door from directly above.

Ross Castle brochure