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History
The century prior to the building of Ross Castle saw a
revival in Ireland of the old feudal ways and of Gaelic
literature and learning. During this period the local clans
consolidated their power in Kerry. It was however a period
of economic depression with several outbreaks of famine
and the Black Death, consequently it was not a great period
of building. However, renewed prosperity in the 15th century
saw the construction of both Muckross Abbey and Ross Castle
in the Killarney area.
At this time the O'Donoghue clan
had undisputed hold over the Killarney area and set
about constructing Ross Castle on the shore of Lough
Leane. This substantial castle was their defensive
stronghold for just over 100 years. It is austere
in design with few decorative features. This castle
would not have stood in isolation; associated with
it would have been many timber structures where the
chieftain's retinue lived.
With the passage of time the leading
Anglo-Normans of south Munster, the Earls of Desmond,
had adopted the Irish ways of life and intermarried
with local families. However with the establishment
of direct English rule in the 16th century the pendulum
began to swing back. In 1536 the Dublin Parliament
legally dissolved the monasteries and six years later
the Earl of Desmond |
Ross
Castle around 1500 |
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was commissioned
to dissolve the religious houses in Kerry, although
there seems to have been
no real interference with the monasteries here at that
time. |
Then followed the Desmond rebellion, which
began in 1569 and continued until 1583 when the Earl of
Desmond was finally
killed. During these wars, Dunloe Castle was assaulted
and suffered considerable damage. The O'Donoghue Ross had
taken
the losing side, which cost him his life and the subsequent
forfeiture of his lands. A survey was commissioned by the
Crown of the fallen rebels' lands and one of the surveyors,
Sir Valentine Browne, benefited greatly from the subsequent
land confiscation. O'Donoghue's lands and castle passed
briefly into the hands of Donal MacCarthy Mor, but being
chronically short of money he mortgaged them in turn to
Sir Valentine Browne. In the collapse of the MacCarthy
fortunes soon afterwards the castle came into Browne's
hands, although it was the subject of litigation for some
time thereafter.
By 1641 revolt had broken out all over Ireland and eventually
Cromwell's forces arrived to quell the rebellion. When
the Parliamentary Army finally arrived in Kerry in 1652,
under the command of General Ludlow, they attacked Dunloe
Castle and a great portion of it was demolished during
the bombardment. Castle Lough, the fortress of the MacCarthy
Mor on Lough Leane, was also besieged and when it was taken,
the structure was subsequently demolished. Ross Castle
was held by Lord Muskerry when General Ludlow laid siege
to it with infantry and horsemen. The castle surrendered
when Ludlow brought artillery by boat up the river Laune
across Lough Leane; it was one of the last major strongholds
to yield during the Cromwellian wars.
Ross
Castle around 1700
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Both
the Browne and Herbert families, the owners of the
two great estates of Killarney
up to recent times, had moved to Kerry to take up
confiscated land. They were termed "undertakers" because
they undertook to settle the land with English Protestant
farmers. The Brownes received extensive confiscated
lands in the area after the Desmond Rebellion and
they established themselves at Ross Castle, building
a fortified
house alongside the castle in 1688. Not long after,
at the time of the Williamite Wars, Ross Castle became
a permanent military post and was converted to a
barrack. The garrison at Ross also made use of Browne's
quarters
for which he was eventually compensated. A more permanent
barrack was built adjoining the castle in the mid
18th century and this accommodated two companies
of infantry
and a governor. When the garrison was finally removed
around 1825, Lord Kenmare had the roof of the barrack
removed and the large windows altered to loops to
reflect the style of the castle. |
Description
This
castle may be considered a typical example of the stronghold
of an Irish Chieftain during the Middle Ages.
The date of its foundation is unsure but it was probably
built in the late 15th century by one of the O'Donoghue
Ross Chieftains. The keep proper is a commanding rectangular
structure built on a limestone outcrop. It is surrounded
by a fortified bawn, its curtain wall defended by circular
flanking towers, two of which remain. (Bawn is the anglicized
version of the Gaelic word badhun meaning cattle-fort.
It is a defensive wall built around a tower house. It
gets its name because it was used to protect livestock
during an attack. It is the origin of the word "barn.")
The high level bawn wallwalk was no doubt battlemented.
At the close
of the
17th century the castle itself was converted into a barrack;
by the time the present barrack building was constructed
in the mid-18th century much of the enclosing bawn had
been removed.
The castle is of typical style for the
period although the larger windows were added at a later
stage. The main
oak door was protected by an outer metal 'drawbridge style'
door which was pivoted at the base. Inside, the hall is
small and was easily defended; above is a rectangular opening
called a murder hole, which certainly gave advantage to
the defenders. There is a circular stone staircase in the
north east corner, which leads directly to all the chambers
and eventually to the parapets. To the right of the entrance
hall is the Guardroom. The small chambers in the castle
are all located at the north end. Halfway up the staircase
a narrow passage leads to the Garderobe and this provided
the only toilet facilities within the castle.
The Bed Chamber has a fine vaulted ceiling. Unfortunately
the original collapsed but the replacement has been reconstructed
using medieval building techniques. To construct the vault
two enormous wickerwork mats were woven in situ and placed
on temporary timber formwork. The stone vault was constructed
directly on top of this and when the formwork was eventually
removed the wickerwork remained leaving an interesting
woven pattern. To make the plaster, the lime and sand was
mixed with coarse animal hair, which helped stop it from
cracking as it dried out. No animal hair was used in the
final layer. Most of the windows had pivoted timber shutters.
The most
important chamber is the Great Hall and this is situated
at the uppermost level. It has two large six-light
windows and only at this position would it have been
safe enough to have such large openings. The finest
fireplace is located here and this room would have
been the centre of activity in the castle. At one
end separated by an oak partition is a kitchen and
above this, a minstrels' gallery. The whole space
is covered by a reconstructed oak roof using adzed
timber which are pegged together with oak dowels
- no nails have been used.
The parapets on the castle are conjectural
and are based on those remaining on the McCarthy
castle at Ballycarbery near Cahirciveen. The chimney
is based entirely on the original, which had to be
taken down for structural reasons. |
Ross
Castle around 1800
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Bartizans are situated at the north west and south east
corners of the castle - these are overhanging turrets from
which missiles, etc. could be dropped with ease on the
attacking enemy below. They have a range of musket loops,
as this was the ideal place to locate musketeers. Over
the entrance door is a very unusual feature for an Irish
castle - an oak door hinged from projected stone brackets,
which allowed soldiers to defend the entrance door from
directly above.
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